South of France pt.1

Author: Ming Taylor

Date: July 2021

Question: Summer in Provence in one word?

Answer: Magical.

We took a direct train from Paris to Avignon which was just over 2 hoursand collected a car just outside of the station with Holiday Autos. Tip ifyou have booked with a specific car in mind, call them the day before tocheck what cars they have available in your category and reserve it -your car model is never guaranteed and can be frustrating and timely tonegotiate on arrival.

Our original plan was to visit Les Halles, an indoor farmers market inAvignon which is open everyday except Mondays but closes at 2pm topick up some ham and cheese then drive to Pont du Gard bridge, 30minutes away for a picnic. Avignon however is super charming and full ofcharacter. Lost in wondering through the town and hungry aftertravelling, we found a small cafe with shaded outdoor seating,Restaurant Le Cul De Poule serving fresh melon and ham salads in thecentre of town. Avignon was celebrating a theatre and photographyfestival with lots of independent shows running throughout July. ManyFrench families with children were visiting, though I imagine manysummer holidays were cancelled due to Covid, July 2021.

We stayed at the picturesque Hotel Mas Valentine in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence for 2 nights. With stunning stone washed walls, duck egg painted shutters and leaves draped across archways, the romance of Provence quickly came true. Serving breakfast every morning out on the shaded terrace between the two trees, though joined by an unwelcome group of flies picking away at any food in sight. Wine is served to guests by the pool and the hotel can prepare some cold meats and cheese platters but there is no restaurant at the hotel, so you will have to venture out for lunch and dinner.

It is a quick 5 minute drive to Saint-Rémy town, famous for a rich culture of arts, literature, music and antiques. Van Gogh was institutionalised here at St. Paul de Mausole an asylum, which was once a monastery where he painted some of his best and final works including “The Starry Night”.

You will find street art hidden in quiet corners and artisan markets where local artists sell their works throughout the year. A feeling of old and new charms Saint-Rémy’s maze of streets with many excellent restaurants and gelaterias dotted around the road that circles the town.

Our hotel booked dinner for us at Restaurant L'Estagnol famous for their seafood. We shared their tapas board for two people for 48 euros, including mussels, razor clams and Iberico ham, tomatoes and baguette. Simple French cooking, done so so well. This family run restaurant has three seating areas, the terrace, the living room and the cave with an extensive wine list and one of our favourite meals from the trip.

An evening stroll after dinner through the town is just as enchanting. Families of all generations dining together, retired couples laughing with glasses of wine, listening to old folk song.

Enroute to our next destination, we stopped at L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue to visit their market day on Sundays. We were advised to arrive early and to park further away and walk in. By 10am, the streets leading up to the small roundabout to enter the town was already full with cars and traffic starting to build. Entering the market, we were unaware of how vast the market was; like everything, patience is a virtue.

Stalls selling handmade trinkets, fresh fruits and vegetables, cold press juices, meats and cheeses, truffles and oils, bread and pastries surround the river Sorgue. Many locals and tourists love to stop to pitter patter their feet in the crystal clear river, such a special sight.

As you get further lost into the market, you will find vintage and antique dealers on the sides of the street selling mid century and renaissance treasures. Old textiles and haberdashery, beautiful wooden doors, cast iron tables and all sizes of light fittings. The streets are packed with locals and tourists all hunting for gold in nooks and crannies around river Sorgue, and did we find gold.

A quick stop for coffee and nibbles at the market and we were eager to arrive at our final destination of the day 30 minutes away, Hotel Crillon Le Brave. Popular on Instagram and Pinterest, this iconic hotel perched at the top of the hill is breathtakingly beautiful. Start with a cocktail in the oldest house in the hotel, now modernised with concrete white walls, a walnut wood bar and vintage mid century Ercol furniture. Super stylish, cosy and cool with a gigantic fireplace, perfect to cool off in the shade.

We normally like to book luxury hotels on MrandMrsSmith.com. They often offer complimentary Prosecco, wine, chocolates, etc on arrival at the hotel, look out for the ‘Offers’ tab when booking. Their service is impeccable and you can quickly collect loyalty credit to use as money off for future bookings. When comparing prices, many times they are cheaper than Booking.com - but not always.

After winding up the hill, you will not want to leave once you have settled in at Crillon Le Brave. Valet service and parking is all complimentary. The hotel is built on the top of a hill, it is steep and has many steps so may not be suitable for children or those who struggle with mobility, but what-a-view!

Lunch and dinner is served on the extended terrace during summer and is the same menu for both. Guests can book and dine at the restaurant without staying at the hotel, it is a more economical way to visit but still enjoy the luxurious experience. We stayed for two nights and had dinner here on both nights, trying different items on the menu, a third would most likely have been too repetitive. Breakfast is a vast and impressive buffet with fresh fruits, pastries, yoghurts, eggs, hams, granola, homemade breads etc served at the La Table du Ventoux with a glass roof or sit on the panoramic terrace. The restaurants can cater for gluten-free and lactose-free, just let them know ahead.

Continue reading for South of France part 2 here >