South of France pt.2

Author: Ming Taylor

Date: July 2021

On our second day at Crillon Le Brave, we hired a classic car for the day that the hotel helped us organise with Provence Classic Cars. This was most definitely the best experience of the entire trip. Run by a British family, Richard who was Chief Engineer for Ford in the 1960’s along with his Son-in-law began a long term restoration of a Jaguar E-type bought on eBay from New Mexico, riddled with bullet holes. The family have now moved to Provence permanently, owning, restoring and leasing a suite of classic cars to the highest standards with incredible attention to detail and modern upgrades.

We hired British “Maggie”, the black 1960 MGA Roadster with tan interior leather. The gearbox has been upgraded to a Ford 5-Speed Synchro Manual, more appropriate for modern driving in Provence. She was an absolute beauty; to tell you this day was better than Christmas is an understatement.

Matt from Provence Classics who dropped the car to us in the morning kindly helped to plan a circuit to drive through different towns and relish in the rolling vineyards and lavender fields.

Gordes to visit hotel Airelles, another five star hotel on the hill top with immaculate views from the bar and restaurant terraces. Then cruising through Roussillon, Joucas, Bonnieux, Ménerbes and Lacoste, stopping for coffee and ice cream along the way. A beautiful drive drenched in rich history and architecture.

The cost of hiring the MGA Roadster for the day was 390 euros plus delivery if required. If you like classic cars, Provence really is the perfect place to drive one. Dry summers, top down and the roads are fairly quiet, mostly flat and in good condition with reasonably sized lanes on either side. Views from Crillon to Gordes are beautiful, you will pass lavender fields, lots of greenery and feel like you’re living full colour in a black and white movie but with no power steering.

Two adults beaming with glee and excitement all day - the experience was worth every penny.

After an unforgettable two days, we drove 3 hours to stop off at Cannes for a walk around town. Pretty pastel coloured buildings with oysters and yachts galore along the shore. It is more of a city vibe and feels mass produced in comparison to the quaint towns visited on this trip.

Not feeling enamoured, there was no desire to explore Cannes further and instead we arrived in Antibes at beach club Plage Keller for dinner. Typically British, we were the first table to be seated at 7pm. Seafood caught in the Mediterranean sea is a staple in Provençal cuisine, so taking advantage of this, we ordered fresh calamari and truffle pasta for starters. Followed by Bouillabaisse, a traditional Provençal fish stew and lobster linguini as mains. Dinner cost 180 euros which is expected for the Antibes region and though the food was not particularly noteworthy, with a glass of rosé in hand whilst watching the calm waters and pink skies set, you are paying for the location on a private beach and panoramic views. By the time we were leaving, the restaurant was full with what looked like regular customers and families who holiday in the area.

Making our way to Nice next, we only had one last day to explore before flying home to London. The next day, we drove 25 minutes to the medieval hilltop village of Èze. Beware with parking, no cars are allowed into the village, so you will need to arrive early to find a parking spot in the car park or wait for when somebody leaves which could take a long while.

On arrival, you will walk up the hilltop and one of the first restaurants is Creperie Le Cactus, serving large salads, sweet and savoury crepes, burgers, etc. After such a rich and heavy meal the night before, something simple and unfussy was just what we needed. Chicken, avocado, peppers and cheese crepe, prawn and kiwi salad, both super tasty, fresh and fusion French. If you are lucky, you will be serenaded by buskers outside the restaurant. Sit outside and you will also be able to enjoy the views but be quick to grab a table as many visitors seem to flock here for a stopoff lunch.

A steep climb up, winding through small charming streets, 429 meters above the Mediterranean sea to the botanical gardens, Le Jardin Exotique and you will see stunning panoramic sights of the French Riviera. Home to numerous succulent plants and xerophytes from all of the continents. Views are breathtaking and worth a visit, but be mindful of the number of steps and steep climb. Tickets cost 6 euros per person during peak season April - October and 4 euros during the rest of the year. Children under 12 have free entry.

On the way back to Nice, we stopped off at the iconic pink palace that is Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild in Cap Ferrat. Guests are welcome to visit for a fee of 16 euros, entering through the shop and then into the villa and gardens with incredible views of the French Riviera. The exterior of the villa is the main attraction, with the southern pastel pink facade, perfectly symmetrical, influences from Florence and Venetian design. Get lost in the enchanting gardens and watch the waterfall directly to the fountain.

Visitors can enjoy tea, cakes and ice cream in the tea room with floor to ceiling views over the Riviera. A welcome break to cool off and bask in the beauty of the French Riviera.

Our final stop was to the eminent Negresco hotel in Nice, over 100 years old and one of the first 5 star hotels in France. Famous guests include Princess Grace of Monaco, The Beatles, Louis Armstrong and Elton John. If that wasn’t glamorous enough for you, the Negresco hotel was announced as a national historic building by the French government in 2015.

Have a drink at celebrity favourite The Negresco bar first, surrounded by authentic walnut woodwork dating back to 1913 and views of the seafront. Dinner on the elegant terrace of their brasserie La Rotonde is relaxed with French classic dishes on the menu. You cannot leave France without having a classic beef tartare with fries and if you are taking a break from seafood then this is requisite, seasoned with lots of acidic pickles and crunchy vegetables on top. We were leaving to go home for my birthday in the morning and the manager was kind enough to send a silky smooth chocolate ice cream, mousse and coffee soil dessert.

La Rotonde offers a three course set menu for lunch and dinner everyday for 49 euros which is exceptional value. Choose from local marinated sumac Sea Bream carpaccio, pan seared scallops and creamy radicchio risotto, seed crusted Sisteron lamb, mint pastilla, yoghurt sauce and spiced bulgur, grapefruit and coconut panacotta and pear with gingerbread soufflé.

Fitting in nine different destinations in the South of France in a week is fairly ambitious but achievable. Plan your route and try to stop off between different destinations to see more on your trip.

Favourite must visits would include Saint-Rémy de Provence for the relaxed and beautiful town, many excellent small family run restaurants all serving brilliant food. Hotel Crillon Le Brave for a touch of luxury. L’isle-sur-la-Sorgue to treasure hunt through Provence’s antique markets and Cap Farat to see the sights of the French Riviera.

The south of France is a vast area and we could easily spend all summer exploring the tiny towns full of charm, seafood, rosé and patisseries. Magical.